Eskimo Ice Auger Starts and Runs but Dies After a Bit Then Starts Right Up Again and Dies

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Topic: Eskimo Z51 auger volition non stay running.  (Read 14045 times)

Brand new, 10 inch, hasn't completed a unmarried hole.   Nosotros tried all 24-hour interval yesterday, cleaned plug several times, fresh l:1 fuel mix.  Starts, but keeps bogging out.  Won't even run out of the pigsty.

It has compression, spark, and fuel, but the longer it runs the slower it gets.  It behaves as if the crankcase is loading up with fuel for some reason.  Good affair we had another auger along.

Checked to make certain the choke was non on.  I'chiliad sure it must be something simple, equally it is brand new.  Anyone of yous motorheads have any suggestions?

Thanks for your time on this,
Ted

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Thanks, Tom, will practise that.

Yet learning my way around this site.
Ted

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Bullelk34

I'm sure you lot checked the vent on the gas cap, and you used clean gas...... you mentioned it's new. I had one auger, brand new, that did the same affair. It ended up being the diaphram, a $3.00 part. Good luck and allow us know what you come up with.

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I got mine new this year. I cleaned the plug, that helped a little fleck, I mixed make new gas, that helped a little more, but information technology still wanst doing its best. Then I ordered some of that Viper Oil that they "recomend" thinking it would be no unlike, and now its keen. It may take been that information technology just needed to be run for a while. Also maybe fuel isnt getting in the line?

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Looooooooooooove to fish, born to fish.
Allow em' large suckers go!

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Open the vent on the gas cap

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I got the same one you lot take to prime information technology with the choke off and so switch the asphyxiate on then pull it over and after information technology runs switch the asphyxiate to run if that dont work i had to change the gas lines on mine information technology was brand new.. i inverse gas lines cleaned carb put new gas and put some seafoam in her and she ran corking... Its very frustrating when you spend $$$ and they dont run worth crap

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Open the vent on the gas cap

That was the first thing I did, earlier the first pull on the starter, and checked information technology many times, merely thank you for the proposition.  Capeesh it.

Ted

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Maybe attempt loosening the cap and endeavour to drill a few holes.  Maybe there'south a factory default in the cap that'due south not assuasive the vent to work properly.  Besides, when information technology stalls, pull the plug and encounter if it'due south moisture or dry and run into what color it is.

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Ordinarily a new auger will need the adjustment screws on the carb adjusted, the loftier and depression speed screws, specially if it is warm out.

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Peradventure try loosening the cap and try to drill a few holes.  Peradventure there'southward a factory default in the cap that's not allowing the vent to work properly.  Besides, when it stalls, pull the plug and meet if it'due south wet or dry and see what color it is.

Aye, we tried loosening the cap, in example the vent was no good.

The plug was wet every time nosotros pulled it.  Dried it off, and it would run for maybe xv seconds, and so start to bog down.  Never ran long enough to colour the electrode.  Notwithstanding looks like new.

Thanks,
Ted

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Yep, we tried loosening the cap, in example the vent was no expert.

The plus was wet every fourth dimension we pulled it.  Dried it off, and it would run for mayhap 15 seconds, and and so showtime to bog down.  Never ran long enough to colour the electrode.  Nevertheless looks like new.

Thank you,
Ted

Well Ted it'southward patently running too rich.
Get-go I would reset the mixture screws by running them all the way in and so backing them out virtually one 1/iv turns. Then you lot can fine tune from this point.
Could as well exist a stuck or improperly set float, merely I would bet on mis adjusted mixture.

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Ted,
I had a weedwacker that refused to stay running. Information technology was driving me basics trying to find out why it wouldn't stay running. When I asked a friend/mechanic about my troubles he recommended that I disassemble the muffler. In that weedwackers muffler at that place was a screen that carbons over and restricts the exhaust menses. A fiddling carb cleaner and a wire brush and it was running like new again. I don't know if this could be your trouble or not. Just some thing to consider.

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Only like it, only diffrent.

T/Ake cAARe, doug

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Ok, when I first got my Stingray (used), I could just get it going with starting spray down the plug hole when it was common cold.  I ended upwardly adjusting the carb myself.  I removed the plastic covers and so I could admission the carb, and institute simply 1 aligning screw with a cap on it.  Removed the cap and put the auger exterior over night.  Side by side solar day I started information technology with starting spray and then started to play with the screw until information technology started running fine.  After it was running fine, I started turning one direction until I heard a slight departure in the engine, then turned the screw dorsum the other fashion paying attention to how far I was turning it until I heard the engine modify over again.  Then I set the screw to the heart of these points.  Revved it up a few times to make sure it revved up fine and put it back together.  Been starting and running like a height ever since.

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Usually a new auger will demand the aligning screws on the carb adapted, the high and low speed screws, particularly if information technology is warm out.

I noticed that my mako's idle seemed a bit loftier and the flyte rotated a bit with warm temps.

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Well Ted it's obviously running too rich.
Starting time I would reset the mixture screws by running them all the way in and then bankroll them out about 1 ane/four turns. And then you lot can fine tune from this indicate.
Could as well be a stuck or improperly gear up float, just I would bet on mis adjusted mixture.

Thanks Drifter,

I'yard sure you are right. It was loading upwardly the crankcase with fuel, but didn't want to mess with it on the water ice when we could be fishing.

I am going to call Eskimo in the morning, and see what they say.

Tight lines to all you guys!
Ted

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Ted,
I had a weedwacker that refused to stay running. It was driving me nuts trying to find out why it wouldn't stay running. When I asked a friend/mechanic about my troubles he recommended that I disassemble the muffler. In that weedwackers muffler there was a screen that carbons over and restricts the exhaust menstruum. A little carb cleaner and a wire brush and it was running similar new again. I don't know if this could be your trouble or not. Just some thing to consider.

Thanks TA.

I actually removed the air filter to see if that would assist, only it made no divergence.  Removed the plug and it actually drained fuel, there was so much in there.

Capeesh your help,
Ted

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Ok, when I first got my Stingray (used), I could only become it going with starting spray down the plug hole when it was cold.  I ended up adjusting the carb myself.  I removed the plastic covers so I could admission the carb, and found only 1 aligning screw with a cap on it.  Removed the cap and put the auger outside over night.  Next solar day I started it with starting spray and then started to play with the screw until information technology started running fine.  After it was running fine, I started turning i direction until I heard a slight difference in the engine, then turned the screw dorsum the other way paying attention to how far I was turning it until I heard the engine change again.  And so I prepare the screw to the middle of these points.  Revved it upward a few times to make sure it revved upwards fine and put it back together.  Been starting and running similar a top ever since.

Lifeguard,

There is a unmarried carb aligning on mine, too.  It has a bright orange plastic cover over information technology.  Like I told Drifter, I didn't want to carp with it when we had my seven inch there and working, when I could be fishing.  But glad I took it along, too.

Thanks for your help,
Ted

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bank check the vent cap on the tank-- maybe you'll accept to replace information technology-- that should resolve your problem

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"information technology really doesn't go any better than this"

"when hell freezes over--I'll fish that to"

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check the vent cap on the tank-- possibly you'll take to replace it-- that should resolve your problem

Have tried running it with the entire cap loose.  No difference.

Ted

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You said it was brand new? I would just return it, or have them fix it where ever you bought it. Sounds similar a stuck float / needle and seat, in the carb

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You lot said it was brand new? I would just return information technology, or accept them set up it where ever you bought it. Sounds like a stuck float / needle and seat, in the carb

I recall yous are correct, and it is flooding the engine.  The problem is I bought it in Anchorage two weeks agao, and I alive in Whitehorse,  725 miles away.

I am going to call Eskimo today, and run across what they have to say.

Cheers to all of y'all for your suggestions.  I was hoping that mayhap we had missed something obvious and simple.

Will let y'all know how it all turns out.

Best,
Ted

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Sounds like it may exist a mixture problem (air/fuel not oil/fuel) if adjustment does picayune or nothing , ya may accept a pinhole in the carb diaphragm. Mail-order a carb kit and DIY.

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I think you are right, and it is flooding the engine.  The problem is I bought it in Anchorage two weeks agao, and I live in Whitehorse,  725 miles away.

I am going to telephone call Eskimo today, and see what they accept to say.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.  I was hoping that perhaps nosotros had missed something obvious and elementary.

Will let y'all know how it all turns out.

Best,
Ted

Ted

Permit u.s. know how it goes.
Hopefully they will just tell you to have it to someone local and pay the costs.
Information technology would suck to take to ship it south unless they pick up the expense.

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Some other possibility is to talk Eskimo into sending you another preset carburetor.

It actually sounds like a stuck needle and seat. Possibly just some particles that got stuck trying to pass through. To save you a long trip or a service call from an unauthorized dealer, they could but transport you a $30 carb and exercise the swap yourself.

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Caveat Emptor et cum grano salis
I enjoy helping people out,,, which way did yous come up in?

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I bought a brand new Mako ten" this year, and I had the aforementioned problem. I emailed Eskimo, they gave me several options, and I took their last one, which was go get some other at the store I bought it from. I did, and it has ran keen all flavor.

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Purchase a adapt that floats you

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I called Eskimo yesterday before I left town, and spoke with a very fine and knowledgeable gentleman, John, in client service.   He listened patiently to all I had done so far trying to remedy the situation, and agreed the engine was flooding.  Asked me to remove the bright orangish cap on the fulel/air adjustment and bank check that.  Information technology was ready at 1 1/four turns, exactly what Drifter had posted here that it should be.

Tried to run it every bit lean as 3/4 plow out, but still flooded, then concluded that it must be a needle and seat trouble.

He asked me if I could go a product called Seafoam here.  That it might clean things up. Told me that sometimes, the needle volition stick if the engine has sat for a very long period of time after leaving the manufacturing plant.  Apparently, the just fuel they can become there contains ethanol, and that can cause this problem if the carbs are not completely purged after running.

I chosen several outfits here, and no one had it.  Chosen Eskimo back, and they are going to transport me a replacement carb.  Just need a copy of the bill of auction.  At present that, my friends, is GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!

Thanks to everyone for all your assist, and thank you Eskimo!

Best,
Ted

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I called Eskimo yesterday before I left boondocks, and spoke with a very fine and knowledgeable gentleman, John, in customer service.   He listened patiently to all I had washed and so far trying to remedy the state of affairs, and agreed the engine was flooding.  Asked me to remove the vivid orange cap on the fulel/air adjustment and check that.  It was set at one ane/4 turns, exactly what Drifter had posted here that it should be.

Tried to run it as lean as 3/4 turn out, only nonetheless flooded, and then concluded that it must exist a needle and seat trouble.

He asked me if I could get a production called Seafoam here.  That it might clean things up. Told me that sometimes, the needle will stick if the engine has saturday for a very long period of time subsequently leaving the factory.  Apparently, the only fuel they tin get there contains ethanol, and that can cause this trouble if the carbs are not completely purged after running.

I chosen several outfits here, and no one had it.  Chosen Eskimo back, and they are going to transport me a replacement carb.  Just need a copy of the bill of sale.  At present that, my friends, is GREAT Customer SERVICE!

Thank you to everyone for all your help, and thank y'all Eskimo!

Best,
Ted

That's good news Ted!!

FYI
Canadian Tire at present carries Seafoam and y'all can as well lodge through Napa.

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That's good news Ted!!

FYI
Canadian Tire now carries Seafoam and you lot can also order through Napa.

Drifter,

They were out of it, but turns out NAPA had some!  Will give it a endeavour and meet how information technology goes.

Thanks,
Ted

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I used Seafoam from the get get and also no ethanol gas with my brand new Mako. My auger ran bully for the 1st iii-4 holes, then it simply quit running. I inverse the plug, but didn't help. They offered me a new carb also, but I opted for the bandy. I bought new, equally I wanted a warranty and didn't desire to wrench on something. Their customer service was great.

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Buy a suit that floats you

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